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The Empowerment Of
Meatloaf
Meatloaf.
I don’t like the word. It sounds so…unappetizing. A loaf of meat.
Couldn’t they come up with a better name? Salisbury Steak…there’s a
sophisticated, enticing name for ground meat combined with other
ingredients to make tasty fare. Proving that a meatloaf by any other
name would taste as good. I can’t in good conscience criticize a
quick, nutritious dinner that has saved my tushie many a busy
weeknight. Instead I should praise it, for all it has been, for all
it can be.
Salisbury Steak and Meatloaf, to me, conjure up visions of Swanson
TV dinners, served up in an aluminum platter with sand-colored
gravy, what we today call corn niblets, and a rectangle of mashed
“potatoes”. To the very right of the aluminum platter, the smallest
compartment of this former minute meal, there is a miniature apple
pie, half the size of McDonald’s, but just as good. Sometimes it was
topped with struedel. I ate these dinners watching Happy Days on a
station wagon of a television set, no remote in sight.
Food is nostalgic.
I know there are people who eat to
live, rather than live to eat. I admire that healthy approach to
food, really. Because I like to taste the way I used to feel, which
usually keeps me in the kitchen day and night.
One answer to this is my meatloaf – in all different variations.
Sometimes I make it Salisbury Steak-ish (“roasted” corn next to
garlic mashed potatoes give it a modern day feel), Southwestern
(with a Santa Fe Caesar Salad – yum!), or Greek (cubed Feta on the
side, with a cracked wheat salad). My basic meatloaf is a mish-mosh
of different meatloaves I’ve tried, variations on cultural themes,
and it has a magnificent glaze with a sweet-spicy thing going on.
Incorporating herbs, spices, starches, fats and flavor into ground
meat is not a new idea, in fact, people have been doing it for
centuries. During the Great Depression this idea enabled cooks to
get a protein-rich dish to more people. If you couldn’t afford a
steak, you could take ground meat, stretch it with some crushed
cereal or oatmeal, cook it for many and eat it cold the next day.
How resourceful is that? We do this every time we cook meatloaf from
our 21st century kitchens. Hunger has a long memory.
But I admit meatloaf gets boring. “Meatloaf again?” the kids say
come 6:00pm, shoulders slouched at the dinner table. Yes, meatloaf
can be just as exciting as boneless, skinless chicken breasts for
the fifth time in eight days, or re-runs of Saturday morning
cartoons. To use the same staple every week and get the family
excited about it takes imagination. Yet, once you understand the
proteins, starches, dairy, lipids and flavor enhancers, a new world
opens up.
I remember when soy sauce made something “Asian”, salsa made
something “Mexican” or Parmesan made something “Italian”. That is so
20th century. Have you noticed how many different “Grilling Spices”
or levels of cumin can be found at your corner grocery? How about
the popularity of chipotles? Get a load of these hip accoutrements.
I like to get tangy with fish sauce, nutty with browned butter, and
I go crazy with plum infused barbeque sauce. All can be used to
build a better meatloaf, to empower an often disregarded classic.
How sweet it is to make a traditional dish with cutting edge
additions. It’s fun, it’s fast, it’s dinner time, and if your house
is anything like mine, anything goes.
Basic Meatloaf
1-2 lbs. ground meat (turkey or beef – ground sirloin works great)
½ cup breadcrumbs (soak in milk if you like)
2 eggs
¼ cup grated Parmesan cheese
2 tbsp. ketchup or tomato paste
1 tbsp. Worcestshire Sauce
Salt and pepper to taste
Glaze:
1 cup ketchup
¼ cup soy sauce
2 tbsp. Worcestshire Sauce
1 tsp. brown sugar
Dash Tabasco
Mix all ingredients for meatloaf together in a bowl.
Place in loaf pan.
Mix ingredients for glaze together in a separate bowl.
With a spatula, smear glaze over raw meatloaf in pan.
Bake at 350 degrees for 45 minutes to 1 hour.

This article
was written by
Samantha
Gianulis
for Family Food
Network.
(You may not reprint this article.)
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